My Navagraha Temple Journey
This trip was special in many ways. We were three friends
traveling together. For me, born and raised in Mumbai, temple visits were not
new — my mother used to take me on temple tours every year, and I would go
along with her. But now, at this stage in life, it felt very different. I’m in
a phase where spirituality has become a norm for me. What I learned as a child
has turned into a craving, and this journey was important for my healing and
growth.
For my friend from North India, this was a completely new
world — full of devotion, curiosity, and excitement. He was amazed by the
architecture, the rituals, and the meaning behind them. For me, it was about
reliving childhood experiences but with a deeper, more spiritual connection.
In 4 days, we covered 15 temples — the nine Navagraha
shrines and five more important temples nearby. Each one carried its own
history, architecture, and energy.
Srirangam – Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple
Our first stop after landing in Trichy was Srirangam, home
to the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, one of the most important Vaishnavite
shrines and the first of the 108 Divya Desams. Lord Vishnu is worshipped here
as Ranganatha, in reclining form.
- History:
Built during the early Chola period (9th century), expanded by the
Pandyas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagar kings, and Nayaks. In the 14th century, it
came under the Delhi Sultanate before being restored by Vijayanagar
rulers.
- Architecture:
Spread over 156 acres, it is the largest functioning temple complex in the
world, with seven enclosures and 21 gopurams. The Rajagopuram stands at
236 feet, the tallest in Asia.
Walking through its long corridors and seeing the deity set
the tone for the entire trip — grand, humbling, and full of devotion.
The Navagraha Circuit
From Trichy, we went into the Kumbakonam region to cover the
nine Navagraha temples, each tied to a planet.
- Sooryanar
Kovil (Sun): A Chola-period temple where Surya is shown on a seven-horse
chariot. The morning light in the sanctum felt like a blessing.
- Thingalur
(Moon): A Pallava-era temple dedicated to Chandra, believed to bring peace
of mind. Its calm atmosphere stayed with me.
- Vaitheeswaran
Kovil (Mars): Known as a temple of healing, with a sacred tank said to
cure ailments. It was also where I did a nadi reading — a palm-leaf
astrology reading of past karma, present, and future. Some of what I heard
was so accurate it stunned me.
- Thiruvenkadu
(Mercury): Associated with Shiva’s cosmic dance. On the day we visited, we
were allowed into the garbha griha itself. I touched the lingam and hugged
it, tears flowing. Hundreds of priests were chanting Vedas as they
prepared for kumbhabhishekam, and I had goosebumps from the sheer energy.
This was the most emotional moment of my journey.
- Alangudi
(Jupiter): Guru is worshipped here. Since it was a Thursday, the temple
was crowded, but the devotion created a strong atmosphere of reverence.
- Kanjanur
(Venus): A spacious temple where Shukra is believed to reside in Shiva.
Chola and Nayak architectural layers are visible in its vast courtyards.
- Thirunallar
(Saturn): The busiest temple, where people seek relief from Shani’s
influence. The energy felt heavy but undeniably powerful.
- Thirunageswaram
(Rahu): Famous for the milk abhishekam, where the milk turns blue when
poured on Rahu. Watching it change before my eyes was surreal.
- Keezhperumpallam
(Ketu): A smaller but unique temple with a rare depiction of Ketu as a
serpent-bodied figure. Quiet but strong in presence.
Nachiar Kovil
At Naciyar Koil (Thirunaraiyur), the goddess Nachiar (Thayar) is given higher
status than the Lord himself — rare in Vaishnavite temples.
- History:
Dating back to the Cholas, the temple is famous for the Kal Garuda idol.
During processions, the stone Garuda is said to miraculously change weight
— light when lifted, heavier as it is carried.
- Experience:
This temple stood out because it highlights the feminine divine, giving
the goddess the central place.
Uppiliappan Temple
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu as Uppiliappan, this temple has a
tradition where all prasadam is cooked without salt.
- History:
The legend says Goddess Lakshmi prayed not to be given in marriage to
anyone lesser than Vishnu. He appeared here as Uppiliappan and married
her.
- Experience:
The belief that food without salt is still divine when blessed gave this
temple a simplicity that felt profound.
Thirukkadaiyur – Abirami Temple
- History
& Legends: This temple is closely linked to two famous stories.
The first is of Markandeya, the boy devotee who conquered death by
worshipping Shiva here. The second is of Abirami Bhattar, a humble
devotee who, by divine grace, described the goddess as the full moon even
on a new moon night — and she transformed the night into a full moon to
protect him. His verses became the celebrated Abirami Anthadhi.
- Significance: Even
today, people come here for Shashtiabdapoorthi (60th
birthday) and Sathabhishekam (80th birthday) rituals,
seeking blessings for longevity.
- Experience: The
temple was full of rituals and families praying for long life. For me, it
carried a different kind of energy — one of protection, continuity, and
the assurance that devotion can even change destiny.
Chidambaram – Nataraja Temple
Dedicated to Shiva as the cosmic dancer, Nataraja, this
temple is unlike others where Shiva is worshipped in lingam form.
- History:
Dates back to the Sangam age (1st–2nd century CE), expanded by Pallavas,
Cholas, Pandyas, Vijayanagar kings, and Nayaks. The Cholas made it their
state temple.
- Unique
feature: The sanctum holds the Chidambara Rahasyam, symbolizing the
element of space and the formless divine.
- Architecture:
The four gopurams are carved with the 108 Bharatanatyam dance postures,
making the temple a living text of art and devotion.
Walking here felt like stepping into rhythm itself, where
every wall carried movement and meaning.
Thiruvannamalai – Annamalaiyar Temple
- History:
With origins in the Chola dynasty (9th century), the temple was later
expanded by Vijayanagar rulers.
- Architecture:
Spread over 25 acres, with four gopurams, the tallest at 217 feet.
- Spiritual
significance: The hill itself is worshipped as Shiva. During Karthigai
Deepam, a giant flame is lit at the top, seen for miles.
I couldn’t climb the hill this trip due to time, but
Thiruvannamalai is personal to me. My father’s elder brother lived there, and I
visited often as a child. Returning brought back those memories of faith and
family.
Temple Architecture
One thing that stood out in all these temples was their
precision. Many are aligned so that sunlight or moonlight falls directly on the
deity at certain times of year.
The gopurams (tower gateways) themselves carry symbolic
meaning:
- The
base shows earthly life with animals, humans, and demons.
- The
middle tiers show gods and celestial beings.
- The
upper tiers represent spiritual ascent.
- The
finial at the top signifies moksha — liberation.
Walking under them felt like leaving the outside world
behind and stepping into something sacred.
The Stay
The travel wasn’t easy. Roads were rough, and most hotels
were very basic. Since I am used to more comfortable stays, this was an
adjustment. On the last day, we stayed in a resort, which gave us much-needed
rest after days of temple visits.
Closing Thought
In four days, I visited 15 temples — nine Navagraha shrines
and five others that together span centuries of history, layers of
architecture, and unbroken traditions of worship.
The highlight was at the Budha temple in Thiruvenkadu, where
I was unexpectedly allowed into the garbha griha. Hugging the Shiva lingam
while hundreds of priests chanted the Vedas, I was overwhelmed with gratitude
and energy.
What I felt across all temples was the energy. The moment I
stepped inside, there was a calm I can’t fully explain. Nothing else mattered —
just being there, surrendering to God. I trusted Him, walked with Him, and was
blessed with unforgettable darshans.
We also met priests whose families had served these temples
for generations. Hearing their stories made me appreciate not just the rituals
but the culture and continuity behind them.
This trip was about more than just seeing temples. It was
about healing, memory, discovery, and faith. The temples may be ancient, the
roads imperfect, and the hotels simple, but the energy inside was timeless.
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